Closet Basics

In my previous piece, I focused on the broader aspects of what I consider the pillars of true style – living well with confidence, grace, manners, and an overall “joie de vivre”, in addition to dressing well. I went on to say that; in my opinion, this is a disappearing characteristic to which very few in modern society aspire. While in general, I believe this to be true, especially of people middle-aged men and older, I do see evidence in the younger ages that the pendulum is moving back in the other direction, specifically among young men. Casual Friday is out and chivalry is in. There is a desire, not only to dress well but to aspire to that “higher calling.”

With that in mind, here are my thoughts on a basic starter wardrobe. If you are in college, just starting in your career, or ditching it all to follow your dreams of being a fishing boat captain or musician, then come along with me. Perhaps you are the parent of an adult child with one of these interests or callings and want to offer some guidance. Maybe you, as a parent, want to kick your style up a notch in 2025. It may not be necessary for you to wear a suit, a dinner jacket, or even a collared shirt in your present lifestyle. However, you may be in the market to date right now, go on job interviews, or be a guest at a wedding, parties, and other functions and events that will require you to step up your sartorial game. Today, it’s just good manners, after all.

BLAZER OR SPORTS JACKET

Dark blue, not black. Either dark buttons or gold-tone “blazer” buttons. It can be paired with anything from tailored shorts and jeans to cotton khakis or gray wool trousers. To cover the seasons, especially here in the south, light woven wool fabric is best, wool is the original wicking fabric, and will help you stay cool better than some kinds of cotton and linens.

TROUSERS

You can’t go wrong with a good pair of chinos! Khaki is the first color you should own, but they come in an array that pretty much goes with anything high or low. Again, 100% cotton, please. After that, and for dressier occasions, gray wool in either flannel or tropical weight. No pleats and cut slim but not skinny.

TIE

Something dark and understated is the best for all occasions. Think navy blue with red stripes, an understated pattern, or just solid navy. Shy away from shiny silks and look for something with more of a matte finish. Some wonderful loose woven silks and silk/wool blends will fit the bill nicely. A cotton or linen pocket square will elevate the look.

SHIRT

White, light blue, or a combination thereof, think stripes. All cotton, please. A full button front with either a button-down, straight, or my preference, a medium spread collar. It will go with anything above, and take you from an informal setting to a funeral and almost everything in between.

JEANS AND FIVE POCKET

Blue, White, Red? A well-fitting, slim but not skinny, pair of dark blue jeans, just like Khakis, can go high and low and most areas. Weddings and funerals are excluded, of course. The same applies to white jeans, even and especially in winter. As for red, or any other color, the “five pocket” pants, cut like jeans but made with the twill fabric and colors of chinos, are a step down from chinos on the formal scale. They can provide a sophisticated, modern look while still being classic and appropriate.

SHOES AND BELT

If you are only going to have one pair of “dress” shoes, a dark brown leather loafer is it. In penny or tassel style, and made of cordovan, calf, or suede, my favorite, the loafer can go high to low and with leather soles, please. The belt should be of a similar color but does not need to be an exact match, and shouldn’t be too skinny or fat. In my next piece, I’ll discuss some of the more esoteric aspects of clothing, specifically fit, fabric, and fabrication. Until then, ciao!